The Car Thread

[Eagle Kammback]

Please, no small wacker jokes, because I love overkill

http://www.f650supertruck.com/

[Chriz]

I moved this to Sports, although I'm not sure it really goes here. We really don't have a car/truck-specific forum, but I saw Shaq, and that justified it coming here for now. :beerchug:

Eagle, I love that you love cars so much, and if it were more than just one user I'd consider creating a car forum. For now, though, maybe put those either in a tech thread or a sporting thread.

[WareW-Believer]

Wow, that's just... No. I can only see the practicality in it's towing capacity assuming one doesn't want to go to a big rig. I'll stick to my F150, thanks.

[Zombie]

Nonsense, there is no such thing as too much!:D:D

Eagle isnt the only car guy here- I just dont post that much unless I find something interesting. Like my Cobra...

[Eagle Kammback]

Wow, that's just... No. I can only see the practicality in it's towing capacity assuming one doesn't want to go to a big rig. I'll stick to my F150, thanks.

What year is your F150? I am driving my dad's 95 XLT with a 302 until I fix my Eagle

Nonsense, there is no such thing as too much!:D:D

Eagle isnt the only car guy here- I just dont post that much unless I find something interesting. Like my Cobra...


What year is your Cobra? My buddy has a very rare 96 Convertible, in bright orange

[WareW-Believer]

What year is your F150? I am driving my dad's 95 XLT with a 302 until I fix my Eagle

94 XL with a 300 4.9L straight 6. 237,000 miles and it still runs great even under load. I had just over 1600 pounds of lumber in the bed last week and had no problems driving it home. Great truck, except at 23 feet long bumper to bumper, it doesn't fit in my driveway.

[Eagle Kammback]

those 300s are torque monsters, I've seen them pull 454 Powered Chevies backwards

[WareW-Believer]

those 300s are torque monsters, I've seen them pull 454 Powered Chevies backwards

Not if it only powers one wheel at a time like mine. All terrain tires do make a huge difference over all weather tires, however.

[Eagle Kammback]

I don't have posi either :(
I would like to eventually do a few things to the truck, like posi rear, CAI, Full Length Headers and True Dual Exhaust through Cherrybomb Glasspacks, but my Eagle Comes First, I need her to go to college in the fall

[Zombie]

[QUOTE=What year is your Cobra? My buddy has a very rare 96 Convertible, in bright orange[/QUOTE]

Mine is also a '96, a black-on-black coupe. Ive got several bolt-ons (I saved the stock parts for all the Melvins out there) and a tune. While its onlt improved a little over stock in the hp department (312 vs 305) it is vastly improved on the torque side (340 vs 300) Ive got to install my exhaust, and that should give me some more everywhere. Also, if your buddy wants to pick up a noticable improvement, advise him to get a SCT Livewire tuning device. Not only does it improve response noticably, I get 2 more mpg and it can be used for datalogging and clearing engine check lights.

-Z

[Chriz]

You guys know of this site? Car Lust (http://www.carlustblog.com/)

Thought you might get a kick out of it.

Ok, carry on...

[Eagle Kammback]

That is cool! THanks
I love how the Banner is all Gremlins, one of my favorite cars

[WareW-Believer]

Great, but where are the 'Cudas?

[Zombie]

Great, but where are the 'Cudas?


At Barrett-Jackson, for the all new low price of $580,000.00...:cry:

-Z

[WareW-Believer]

At Barrett-Jackson, for the all new low price of $580,000.00...:cry:


Not my dad's. '70 Plymouth Barracuda with 440 HEMI.

[Chiron Jackal]

This truck terrifies me. As someone who regularly drives to San Francisco I'm flooded with horrifying mentals of trying to park that thing. Depending on the time and day of the week you'll be lucky if you can find enough space to park a microwave.

I've always wanted a truck, but even a small truck would just make things like that even more difficult.

If I ever get rich I'll have a cabin in the woods and have a SuperTruck out there so I can ride around feeling manly as I look down on the world and park wherever I want.

[Eagle Kammback]

My F150 is a pain to park sometimes, the rear bumper sticks out, and at the same time, so does the front

[WareW-Believer]

My F150 is a pain to park sometimes, the rear bumper sticks out, and at the same time, so does the front

It's not that bad. You just have to park at the back of the parking lot. I don't even bother to try parking where there's two rows of cars. I did it once, and I aint gonna do it again, 'cause they're so dang close together.

[Zombie]

Not my dad's. '70 Plymouth Barracuda with 440 HEMI.

:confused::confused:


A 440 or a Hemi? What one is it? A 440 is a wedge-head type engine (with the intake and exhaust valves seated next to each other), and the Hemi is obviously, a hemisperical combustion chamber with the valves seated far apart from each other, on the other side of the combustion chamber. All 361s, 383s, 400s and 440s are wedge engines, and all Hemis are 426s, unless they are Mopar Performance 476 or 527 crate engines. It is possible that it has had a Hemi-head retrofit, using heads from Stage V Engineering and a Hemi-grind camshaft (at wich it would be referred to as a stroker Hemi), or one of the many Hemi-vin cars with a 440 engine installed from the factory (in wich case it would be referred to as a 440 car), but there is no 440 Hemi engine. I myself have a Hemi-vin '69 Charger (no, its not for sale) that came with the 440 wedge engine, but it is getting a correct year 426 Hemi, or the big 572 from MP when it is time to move to the drivetrain.

-Z

[Eagle Kammback]

I bet I am one of the few people who wasn't confused by what you just said
cool.
I didn't know there were Hemi Vin cars that had 440s in them, how did they happen?

[Zombie]

There were 3 ways it could have happened- They ordered the Hemi option, (auto or manual, hd torsion bars and Dana 60 rear)but they didnt have a hemi engine for it, so they put in a 440 and the dealer knocked off some money for it (as was the case for my car) or the original hemi got blown up and was replaced under warranty with a 440, again because of assembled engine shortages (and most hemis were warranty voided because of owner modification) or it has hemi badging, but they just put in the 440. This is reletivly common in the full size cars, like my Charger and Daytonas.

Im going for the look like stock, but carry a nucular missle setup for my Charger, and it will be ready for Carlisle next year. Im leaning tward a possibly 600+ ci Hemi with a factory magnesium cross ram and mag valve covers. Just gotta finish up the body for now.

-Z

[WareW-Believer]

A 440 or a Hemi? What one is it?
Hm, didn't know that. It's a 440 wedge, but that doesn't mean it's lacking in the power department at just around 600 horses. My dad is always referring to is as a HEMI, so that's why I said it. I do know that there are HEMI heads made for the 440's.

When my truck eventually becomes a project truck I plan to overhaul the whole thing and put a 427 in it. Just because. :drool:

[Zombie]

427 Ford or Chevy? If youre running the Ford FE big-block, there are lots of goodies out there for you..

Thanks to John Kaase, there are reproduction Boss 429 hemispherical heads that you can use on any FE-series engine- no need for a rare and expensive Boss-specific block! Plus they make stupid power at realistic operating speeds, and only get better when some forced induction is put into the mix. On his site, you can see his S-197 Mustang that got a Boss heart transplant. Its insane! Just imagine, those heads on a cheap 460 block, a stroker crank to take it out to a 520ci, and slamming gears with a World Class T-5 trans...

You can also build what was once considered a suoer rare and exotic out of all new parts too, now with the availability of new Ford 427 SOHC Cammer heads and blocks. These things will zing up to 9000+ rpm (with proper lower end components, of course) and are capable of close to 1000hp in naturally aspirated trim! The newest issue of Hot Rod has a whole segment on building a new SOHC. Good stuff!

From a price perspective, Id go the Boss 429 route, but if peoples eyes bulging out of their head is a desired result, niether one would miss. The Boss heads are about $4500 assembled, plus you need an intake, and fabricated headers, but its good for big power. The SOHC though, is still a pricy beast. It would cost about $17,000 just in parts, and using an iron block wouldnt shave it down very much. But it has the undeniable "WOW!" factor, plus insane rpm capability.

-Z

EDIT- With my Cobra being a DOHC engine, I only rev it to 7000 rpm, so thats a good indication of what the 'ol cammer is capable of!

[Chiron Jackal]

Now I know how normal people feel when someone on Star Trek babels on about the ODN relays or the matter-antimatter reaction assembly.

[Zombie]

I thought it would be a good idea to have a sticky car thread, for all of us that love our motorized tin cans! Product reviews from members, bench racing sessions, the works. So, in that spirit, Ill make the first post...

PRODUCT(S) REVIEW: RUSSELL STAINLESS BRAKE LINES, HAWK HPS BRAKE PADS, POWERSLOT ROTORS, POWERSTOP ROTORS.

TEST CAR: 1996 SVT Cobra

My Cobra came from the factory with production 13-inch front rotors and pads, with 11-inch rotors out back. With time for inspection coming up, I replaced my front brake lines, that allow expansion under extreme use, to Russell braised stainless steel lines. Not only do they not expand under severe use, they also give a firmer pedal feel under braking, and feedback so you can modulate your brakes as needed. The stock rotors were well worn out, so I got a set of Powerslot's slotted rotors for the front, and Powerstop's cross drilled rotors for the rear. Both are made in the USA with excellent worksmanship and materials, with the Powerstops having a gold-colored plating to help woth corrosion resistance. The pads of choice I went with are Hawk's HPS (High Performance Street) compound, since I drive the car a lot. These pads alone, have been tested by many magazines and have proven to decrease stopping distance signifigantly. Anything that stops you sooner (that isnt a retaining wall, car or person!) is a good thing. The old stock setup had the car stopping from 80 mph in 164 feet. After carefully bedding the new brakes, the car now stops fron 80 in 141 feet, with fantastic pedal feel. That gives an extra 23 feet that you didnt have before, a great upgrade.

Combined product review: 9 out of 10. A great brake upgrade combination for any vehicle, from a turnip truck to your hot street car.

-Z

[Zombie]

Product Review: Dunlop Sportmax summer tires.

Test Car: 1996 SVT Cobra

Driving a high performance car has a few setbacks, one of them being accelerated tire wear, especially if the driver pushes the car. In need of a new set of rear tires for my car, I ordered the inexpensive Dunlop Sportmax summer tires, since I will be driving my 4X4 in the winter. To date, these tires have been a great disappointment. They break traction far too easily, squeal under non-lock braking situations, and instill fear instead of confidence when pushed. I will be replacing these tires very soon with more suitable rubber. If you want something for a burnout contest, or drifting, then these are the tires for you. If high performance driving is your bag, these are many better choices out there for only a little more money.

Rating: 3 out of 10. Avoid this tire if you like to accelerate, turn or stop. They are low cost, and unfortunately, you get what you pay for with these.

-Z

[Eagle Kammback]

I get all my tires for free (used, but not very worn)
both my Eagles came with new tires

I got my Eagle running, yet she runs a bit funny when my foot is only lightly on the pedal

[Zombie]

I get all my tires for free (used, but not very worn)
both my Eagles came with new tires

I got my Eagle running, yet she runs a bit funny when my foot is only lightly on the pedal


Im seriously considering re-mounting my Summimotos on the rear again. They are at the tread wear indicator (why I needed new ones) but the tread is still more than enough for everyday use.

Ill probably go with a set of Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar or Nitto NT05s next time.

Sounds like you might have a vaccuum leak somewhere..

-Z

[WareW-Believer]

Speaking of tires:

Product Review: Kumho Road Venture AT Tires

Test Vehicle: 1994 F150 Super Cab

When I bought my truck back in October, it came with some relatively new Hankook Mileage Plus II all weather tires. They are great tires when it comes to driving on dry or semi-wet roads, but anything else and they became a real hassle. More than four inches of snow meant I was walking, attempting to drive on ice was out of the question, and driving in dirt meant driving slowly. Halfway through winter I decided I had to get some better tires. I had to keep a few factors in mind first. One, I was paying for college and didn't have a job at the time, so I had to look for relatively cheap tires. Two, I occasionally work on a farm (driving in the grass was a no-go) and in places where all weather (or at least the Hankooks) aren't enough in traction. So, I had my search narrowed down to all-terrain and relatively cheap. It was obvious that I should purchase the Kumhos because they provide the weight capacity ratings that I need for hauling lumber, have a nice tread, and are some of the cheapest tires I've found at $65 each(at the time on sale from $75). I absolutely love them. They provide more than enough traction and driving in the snow is a breeze. To date, I have just over 7,000 miles on them and nothing to complain about.

An excellent all terrain tire at a cheap price. What more could you ask for?



Now, I'd like to ask for some advice. I have been hauling a lot of lumber from my jobsite to where I store it for drying. A typical load is an estimated 1400 pounds and is entirely in the bed of the truck. I have noticed recently that when the truck is loaded, it tends to sag a good deal more than when I first started. All I can think of is that the rear shocks are starting to go. I replaced the front shocks back in December when I realized they were absolutely shot. At the time I didn't know I would have the amount of weight in the truck as there has been, so I bought some cheap gas operated Monroe at Advance Auto. What I want to do is replace the rear shocks with something a bit beefier than stock. The problem is, I haven't the slightest clue on what is best for me. With no weight in the truck, the clearance between the top of the rear axle to the bottom of the rubber buffer (don't know what the buffer is called, but it's bottomed out if they touch) is 5-1/4 inches. With 1400 pounds the clearance used to be just under three inches, but is now below two. I don't have much money to throw around, but I'd be willing to pay up to $100 for a pair of shocks.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[Zombie]

It isnt your shocks at all. Your leaf springs are starting to sack out. What you would really want is another leaf on the rear, but that would make the ride harsher with the bed unloaded. There are several manufacturers that have a leaf-spring helper kit that will give you added bottoming resistance, but in reality, its just a band-aid. A reletively competent shop, or even mail-order shop (such as Summit, Jeg's or National Parts Depot) will usually have better springs in stock, and installation time really isnt too big a deal. Also, when getting new leafs, get them with polyurethane eyelet bushings either with them, or allready installed. They wont distort or break down like rubber, and will last you the lifetime of the truck. Just tell the company you deal with what the problem is, and they can help you out with a reccomendation on your suspension needs.

-Z

[Zombie]

Dirtbike Product Review: Metzler MC5 Intermediate terrain tires.

Test Bike: 1996 Honda CR 500R

We all know that dirtbikes are fun. You can race around a closed course, you can go trail ridin, or just buzz around in your front yard. But if youre spinning, sliding, and generally have little to no control over your bike, thinks can get really spooky really quick. Such was the case with my bike, that was equipped with Dunlop soft-terrain tires. While those are exellent tires on a wet, prepared track, on anything else, they are like greased teflon. A low-speed highside finally got the message to me that new tires would be a really good idea. Having owned 500cc 2-strokes in the past, I knew that these rear tires take a major ass-whooping when you jam the throttle to the stops. A 2 1/2 inch wide contact patch has to transmit 65+ horsepower to the ground to get the 230 pounds of bike, plus you, moving. After considering the terrain of where I ride, I secided that an intermediate terrain tire would suit my needs, as they are the best compromise between a dedicated soft terrain tire and a dedicated hard terrain tire, offering grip in just about all conditions. The Metzler MC5 also has a very aggresive, almost paddle like knob positioning for maximum straigt-line grip with an interrupted pattern side blocks for cornering. I matched the front with the MC5 front tire, and the results are great. Excellent traction under acceleration, braking and cornering, very easy to control powerslides, and to date very little wear. The MC5s will serve you very well, no matter where you ride.

Product review: A great tire at a good price that will give you grip wherever you need it.. 8.5 out of 10.

-Z

[Zombie]

Dirtbike Product Review: EBC Oversize brake rotor, Braking brake pads.

With most of the focus in motorsports being on the "go", there is also the need for increased "whoa". Honda has, traditionally, had the best brakes in dirtbikes throughout the '90s and into the '00s. While the brakes on a small bike such as a 125 or 250 are imprtant, it is even more so when you have a 65+ horspower 500cc monster to haul down from speed, and the factory brakes did a good job at this. But as we all know, if a little bit is good, too much should be better, right? :D That too much in this case is a 320mm diameter cross-drilled front brake rotor made by EBC in England. Its a top-notch product, with great materials, and as is the case with most of their products, a gold-colored coating to help in corrosion resistance. Braking has made a name for themselves in the early 90s by helping hapless Kawasaki owners have a taste of what Honda brakes were. These pads offer great bite, and dont need much in the way of heat to do it. My stock brakes were getting worn, and my rotor had warped from overheating (not my fault, I swear!) so a call to Dennis Kirk (denniskirk.com) netted me a shiny-new front rotor and pads to match. Now, I like my prakes to be very strong and progressive, meaning 1-finger stoppies. The EBC/Braking combo is almost there, but I think I need to better bleed the system to get up to full lever firmness. There is definately an increase in stopping power with less lever effort, and I rely on my front brakes far more than my rear, and thats usually the opposite of what most people do (most ride the rear brake and hardly touch the front). I think with a power-bleed, the system will firm up and Ill have my 1-finger stoppie brakes with no problems whatsoever.

Product review: A grat combination for any bike, for very little cash outlay and work. I reccomend them for anyone who needs to stop, and stop NOW! 9.5 out of 10.

[BlasphemousHeart]

I drive a 2004 Dodge Stratus SXT 'Sport" Coupe...

[Zombie]

I drive a 2004 Dodge Stratus SXT 'Sport" Coupe...

Any mods/upgrades?
My 96 SVT Cobra has..,
-Hawk HPS brake pads
-Powerslot 13" slotted front rotors
-Powerstop 11" cross-drilled rear rotors
-Russell stainless steel braided brake lines
-FRPP Aluminum driveshaft
-Energy Suspension polyurethane transmission mount
-Valeo King Cobra clutch
-BBK clutch quadrant
-Steeda clutch cable adjuster
-Pro 5.0 short-throw shifter
-Steeda aluminum shifter handle
-FRPP shift knob
-BBK cold-air intake
-MSD coil packs
-FRPP Hemi-type plug wires
-BBK underdrive pulleys
-Energy Suspension polyurethane steering rack bushings
-SCT 93 octane tune
-White HVAC overlay
-Corbeau microsuede CR1 roadrace seat and bracket
-FRPP "Bullit" Mustang pedal covers

My car was factory-rated at 305hp and 300ft/lbs tq.

It now puts down 317hp and 340ft-lbs tq on pump gas, through the mufflers and with the factory 4 catalytic converters, and averages 23mpg.

[Zombie]

Wow, its been a long time since there has been a post in this thread..

PRODUCT REVIEW: MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS CLUTCH CABLE PACKAGE.

For quite some time now, our beloved Mustangs have had cable-operated clutches that were an improvement in feel and engagement over the old z-bar link that cars had in the 60s and throughout a major portion of the 70s. While they offer a much lighter feeling clutch, it isnt maintenence-free. Many aftermarket companies offer a aluminum quadrant and cable package to replace the weak stock plastic quadrant that is prone to breakage, and this requires an adjustable cable and firewall adjuster. Such a cable, quadrant and adjuster were in my car for the past year, and for the most part, it has been trouble free. Since things always go wrong when you least expect or need them to, I was on my way to work when I pulled into my turning lane, getting ready to downshift. When I pushed on the clutch pedal, it felt gritty and suddenly I heard a loud "POP!" as the pedal went striaght to the floor with no resistance. I got the vehicle off to the side of the road safely and shut it down. My clutch cable had broke. After having the car towed back to the house, I removed my drivers seat to check under my dash at my clutch actuation components. The cable had broken at the firewall, and the quadrant was marred. It was also free to move with some side-to-side movement, and thats a big no-no for these components.

Time for an upgrade.

Maximum Motorsports is a company that specilaizes in Mustangs, specificly Mustang suspension and drivetrain supporting systems. And they actually race with what they sell, so they know what works and what doesnt. After some research, I decided to upgrade my whole clutch support system to theirs. Now, my car allready was running a BBK quadrant, and a Steeda firewall adjuster with a Steeda cable. After the MM parts came, it was time to get to work. MM supplies very detailed and illustrated instruction with its products, so the install was a breeze, and I had everything together in a little over a half hour, except for the cable. The MM quadrant is a sturdy piece, and its build quality is much higher than the chewed-up BBK piece. It also has supplied spacers to prevent it from moving side-to-side that helped destroy the BBK component. Its ramp ratio is quite fast, a must for roadracing, and I had zero problems getting it in there. Also supplied with the kit is MM's firewall adjuster. This piece dwarfed the Steeda piece, and again its build and machine quality was higher than the Steeda's. It also offers more adjustment for use with their cable. After giving it a decent slathering with anti-sieze (as per the directions) it went in with a small bolt instead of the lousy screws that were holding the Steeda unit in place. Now, to finish everything up, we come to the cable. Maximum Motorsport doesnt sell adjustable cables because of inferior quality and worksmanship in aftermarket cables, that result in breakage, housing collapses and all sorts of other problems. What they do offer is a slightly modified factory Ford cable, and it works like a charm, offering buttery-smooth operation, and better quality, materials and longevity over a aftermarket cable.
I turned the firewall adjuster all the way in, got the cable in, and fired up the car.

The moment of truth.

With the car idling and up to temperature, I pushed on the pedal a few times. It is much lighter than it was before, and it engages quickly, excelent for fast shifts. It offers a vey light, kind of springy feel to it. I held it in, and gently nudged the shifter into first, keeping on the lookout for any grinding or other disturbacnce that would require adjusting the cable, and there was none. I idled out of my driveway onto the street, and gently accelerated, seeing if there was any hint of slippage, and there wasnt any. I accelerated progressively harder, and there isnt any slippage at all. No adjustment was needed at all. Good stuff!!

Overall, the Maximum Motorsports is an extremely well though-out and engineered package, with highly detailed instructuions that make the install simplicity in itself, and its quality is second to none. It includes any and all parts you may need, so all you need are some everyday hand tools and you are good to go. This was a great package and retails for about $140, and I'd unhesitatingly reccomend it to anyone who owns a Mustang and wants an adjustable setup.

The Maximum Motorsprts Clutch Cable package scores a 9.5 out of 10 for offering a product far superior to anything else out there to date.

[Eagle Kammback]

Let me just say that Monroe Air Shocks are wonderful and by far the best upgrade I've done to my car